Morocco

Official Languages: Arabic & French Currency: Moroccan Dirham

Casablanca Chefchaouen Fes Marrakech Merzouga Taghazout Tangier

Morocco, you sure are a beautiful country. Africa has always been on the top of my list for continents to travel, though I never thought that Morocco would be my first country to visit. If Morocco isn’t on your bucket list – you should certainly add it. Morocco is one of 54 countries in Africa, and is in the Northwest of the continent. Getting to Morocco is relatively easy and is a quick hop from Spain, Europe, or Northern Africa if you’re already planning a trip nearby. Whether you want to see the popular cities of Marrakech, Casablanca, Fez, Chefchaouen, or a different part of the country, every place in Morocco has its own feeling, vibe, and it’s own presence. 

Morocco is generally a Muslim country, and as a practicing Muslim, your will have many different rituals. One of the most known, and that is over 1400 years old, is the ‘call to prayer’ that happens 5 times per day. The times of the calls are reliant on the position of the sun, and as a result, the time changes everyday and is also dependent of geography. They occur at dawn (before sunrise, Salat al-fajr), mid-day (after the sun passes its highest point, Salat al-zuhr), late afternoon (Salat al-'asr), dusk (just after sunset, Salat al-maghrib) and between sunset & midnight (Salat al-'isha). This call out will echo throughout every city, from every Mosque minaret. Practicing Muslims will either head to a Mosque to pray, or do so in their own space. Wherever they are, they are always separated by gender – men in the front, women in the back, or in different rooms altogether. The prayers, called Salat, can last anywhere from 10-20 minutes depending on the time of the prayer and day of the week. Muslim prayer does not involve praying for the benefit of Allah, but solely because they were told to do so by God. It involves uniting body, mind and soul in worship, includes a cleansing practice prior and includes movements within the body united with the words of the prayer. The last call to prayer of each day indicates at what point families are free to go about their day-to-day business, including when they begin to eat dinner. Another Muslim tradition is that they don’t drink alcohol, so if you’re planning on going to Morocco to party, think again. Aside from a few main cities or places within, it can be hard to find so much as a beer, and its likely going to be pretty expensive when you do find some. The other point to make about Morocco’s culture (or any other Muslim country for that matter) is how to dress. It is crucial to cover up and dress appropriately if you don’t want to a) stand out like a sore thumb, and b) disrespect the culture and religion. Even though it’s usually hot, try to find some loose fitting clothes that cover your shoulders and knees, and this goes for all genders. In beach towns or while swimming, bikinis are okay – but still try to keep them fairly modest. Its easy to pick up a shawl or scarf while you’re there (for cheap), which I would highly recommend doing as it can come in quite handy when you may feel like you’re a bit underdressed or to keep the sun off of your skin.

Before hopping on the ferry from Spain to head to Morocco, someone asked me, “So, you’re going to Morocco. Do you speak any Arabic or French?” My answer was of course, no. I clearly had no idea what I was about to get myself into in regards to language, but that became part of the experience for me. I had done a bit of research of Morocco ahead of time, but more in the sense of its customs and ‘what not to do’ before getting there. The Moroccan languages, traditions, religion, and culture are vastly different from Europe, let alone anywhere else I had ever been before. I had to stock up on clothing appropriate for the Muslim culture – long, flowy pants, dresses, cap sleeve shirts, etc. Anything to help cover up the shoulders and knees at the very least - basically, everything that my backpack was NOT full of. Regardless, I was ready to take on a new challenge and step outside of my usual bikini wearing, beach lounging comfort zone – at least for a while. 

I started out taking a ferry south from Tarifa, Spain into Tangier, Morocco – a quick 1 hour ferry ride, with very little expectation about what was about to come. Little did I know, I was about to be blown away in some amazing ways. Morocco has a vast amount of history, so many different and unique cities throughout, beautiful beaches, surfing, the Sahara Desert, and the Rif & Atlas Mountains. Morocco has so many things to offer depending on how much time you have to spend here. I spent ~3 weeks and was able to stop in most of the places that I wanted to, but I moved pretty quickly and did have to miss a few places. 4 to 5 weeks in my opinion would be the perfect amount of time to spend here if you want to cover most of the highlights of the country and spend more than a few days at each, but even a couple weeks is better than nothing.

Check out the info below for highlights on each of the specific cities I’ve visited!

Casablanca

Named after the movie, (just kidding – this isn’t Strange Wilderness - sorry if you don’t get this reference – you must now go watch this movie ASAP), Casablanca, in Central-West Morocco is the largest city, a major port and business hub, and the most westernized of all of Morocco. It was once used as a safe harbor for pirates in the 14thcentury, before falling to Portuguese control later on. Casablanca is most notably known for the largest mosque in Morocco – Hassan II Mosque, as well as Rick’s Café, made famous in the movie, Casablanca.  

If you were a fan of the movie Casablanca, you will probably want to pay a visit to Rick’s Café. This café was built after the movie, and has paid homage to the theme that the movie portrayed, though this was not the original filming location (contrary to what many people believe). Here, you can get a delicious meal, while listening to a pianist stroking the ivory keys. 

Another attraction, and a must visit here is the Hassan II Mosque. It is the largest mosque in Morocco, and the whole of Africa, and it the 7thlargest in the world. The Mosque’s minaret (tower) is the second tallest in the world standing at a height of 210 m. The mosque was completed in 1993, and has walls, which were hand crafted out of marble, and with a retractable roof. The mosque is designed to hold 105,000 worshippers – 25 thousand within the mosque, and another 80 thousand in the grounds outside. Its unique position – partly over the land, and partly over the Atlantic Ocean, give very unique vantage points for viewing the mosque, both from near, and afar.

A day or two in Casablanca is plenty in my opinion. Aside from being a big city and a great place to stock up on essentials, you can see most of the major tourist attractions in one day. Though, if you are an artsy type (I’m not so much), you can spend a lot of time here engulfing yourself in the arts scene that is prevalent here.

Chefchaouen

I was only in Morocco for a few days before hopping to one of my bucket list cities, and one that sparked my interest in Morocco in the first place, Chefchaouen. The ‘blue pearl ‘as its known to many was my next stop. Chefchaouen is known for a few things, but for most, it’s the blue city. A small city situated in the East of Morocco, within the Rif mountains, the city is a must see in my opinion. Nearly ever building within the medina walls is painted a shade of blue, creating a very enthralling atmosphere. A photographers dream, there is so many hidden gems around every corner of this city. It’s no surprise that the city is a tourist hot spot for photographers and IG influencers alike. This city is by far one of the most beautiful I have seen, but it wasn’t just the allure of the blue that caught my eye here. The blue is very calming, creating a very serene, down to earth feel. There are a few theories that have been thrown around as to why the city was painted blue in the first place – a cooling color to deter mosquitos, tourism due to its captivating and picture perfect buildings, and the original Jewish influence that was once present here. I’ve heard and spoken with multiple locals, and it doesn’t seem like there is one ‘right’ answer as to why it is this way, but regardless, it’s stunning. There are a few different ways to get to Chefchaouen, you can do a day trip from nearby cities, or as I did, hop on a bus and spend some time exploring the area. My days spent here were some of my favourite, so hopefully you’ll pay a visit to the most blue-tiful city in all of Morocco!

The Spanish Mosque

Perhaps one of the best views overlooking the city is from the Spanish Mosque. The Mosque was built by the Spanish back in 1920, abandoned during the Rif war, and never used.  It overlooks the entire city of Chefchaouen, is surrounded by the Rif Valley Mountains, and has one of the best spots to watch both the sunset and sunrise. After a quick and easy 20-minute walk up the hill from the eastern gate (~2 km, with many viewpoints along the way) you will reach the Mosque. I would normally say grab a beer for the view, but you’re in Morocco so… grab a seat (and maybe a spliff if you’re so inclined), and watch the magic happen as the sun fades over the mountains.

The Rif Mountains

One of the main industries in Morocco, though much less talked about, is the Hash industry. Yes, hashish. Marijuana and hash are still illegal in Morocco, but here, the police tend to look the other way, likely given how much money the industry has made for the country. Everywhere you walk in Chefchaouen you will likely be asked ‘Do you smoke? I have hash’. Though I’m not going to condone doing illegal things on this blog, I was keen to check out what the whole industry was about, and they were more than willing to offer. No, I didn’t buy hash from these guys; instead, I went up to a hashish farm. Most owners are more than willing to show you their hash farm up on the hill behind the mosque and to make it right in front of you so you can see the process. I had been warned about hash prior and how many things can get melted into it when it’s being made (such as plastic) to increase its weight for sale, so seeing it being made first hand was key for me. Our farmer in the mountains offered us into his house for some ‘tea’ - we walked through his cattle barns, around the chicken coops, and past the marijuana plants before finally reaching his house. He sat us down and started the process. He explained everything from why this area is so great for growing, before starting the process of converting his dried marijuana to hash. He showed us everything from stripping down the plants, prepping the bin to collect the kief (THC crystals), pounding out the plants to get the kief itself and how you heat/melt the crystals to convert the final product into hash. All of this was done right in front of us. It was a very interesting experience seeing first hand how it’s made before making its way elsewhere to be (albeit illegally) sold around the world. Though the hash industry relies significantly on tourism, its one of the main sources of income throughout the whole of Morocco.

If you too want to check out a farm, all you need to do is show up in Chefchaouen and start walking on the paths past the Spanish Mosque. Enjoy a little hike and beautiful views of the Limestone Rif Mountains, and venture to one of many farms up there for a few hours to see how its all done.

Akchour Waterfalls

Though most people come in and out of Chefchaouen pretty quickly, I was here for 3 nights, and could have stayed much longer. If you choose to take your time, a trip to the Akchour waterfalls are well worth the day trek. The drive from Chefchaouen to the drop off point takes about 45 minutes, and is easiest (and cheapest) by grabbing a shared ‘Grand’ taxi from town near the traffic circle outside of the old medina.

The hike itself is around 2 hours one-way to the final falls, and the path is not very well marked, and to make it even more confusing, there are 2 different routes you can take to two different falls/lookouts. People at the drop off will offer their ‘tour’ services, but as long as you don’t mind getting lost once or twice, you really don’t need one, as the walk itself is quite easy. As for the two routes, you will need to decide relatively early on if you want to do one, or both. The start of the hike will take you past a hydroelectric dam, and branch off from here. Following the path to the left, will take you to the proper Akchour Falls. Heading to the right will take you to ‘Gods Bridge’, an unusual rock formation. The God’s Bridge hike takes ~45 minutes 1-way, the Akchour Falls route ~2 hours. We only did the Akchour Fall route, so I can’t give you too much info on the Gods Bridge scenery or walk, but I’ve heard great things. If you’re at the drop-off early enough in the day, you could certainly squeeze both of these in!

To get the to Akchour falls, you will find a dirt path to the left just before a hotel that takes you on the ‘right’ path to the different falls you will see. To know you’re on the right path, keep an eye out for signs that talk about the native plants in the area. If you see this – you’re on the right track. As for the waterfalls themselves, they have classified them as the little (lower) & grand (upper) waterfalls, though you will see many more than two waterfalls along the whole hike. If you’re lucky, like we were, you may also get to see some Barbary Macaque monkeys swinging through the trees too, so be sure to keep an eye out. The final’ large’ falls has a pool of water in front that you can swim into, but be warned, its FREEZING cold. I felt like I was swimming in a lake back home with how brisk the water was. A local has set up a little restaurant at the end with mint tea, tanginess, etc., so even if you’re cold, you can easily warm up in the Moroccan breeze, or with the help of some hot tea and food.

You will likely not see too many people along your hike, so enjoy spending the day out in serene nature in the beautiful Rif Mountain Valley before catching a shared taxi back into town!

Fes

Having a reputation for being one of the most unsafe cities in all of Morocco, is Fes. Though I never felt unsafe here, even walking through the medina by myself, you do need to have your wits about you, as you get lost through the medina. Fes’s medina is one of the most hectic that I was in (second only to Marrakech), and is extremely easy to get lost in, which is when locals typically try to take advantage of tourists. They will offer their assistance in getting you back to a main route, only to take you down a dead end path and demand you pay them money before letting you actually get back. With that said, don’t let this deter you from visiting the city, as it has many beautiful things to see that you would otherwise miss out on in Morocco. 

Every city in Morocco has its own vibe, and Fes was no exception. I only spent one day in the city, but that seemed like more than enough to me. At the main entrance to the medina is the Blue Gate - an infamous archway that captures Moroccan architecture in its style. Walking through the archway into the medina and souks, you feel an immediate connection. The smells of the spices are stimulating; the sounds are energizing; and the feeling - chaotic & confusing. You will pass by a million vendors all selling you essentially the same things – fresh fruits and veggies, meats, spices, argon oil, ceramic tiles with Moorish influence, household goods, clothes, leather goods, & jewelry. Though you are more than likely to get lost, wander around and explore the hectic old city and everything that it has to offer. You can find some real bargains in the old medina, so Fez is a great place to stock up on souvenirs to take home!

Aside from the main medina and souks within, Fes is well known for its leather tannery, where you can go and see the different steps that hide goes through before coming leather (and believe me, its not a pleasant, or good smelling process) at one of many different tannery shops. You can also pay a visit to the Jnan Sbil gardens to get out of the crazy hustle and bustle of the city, or check out the Al-Attarine Madrasa that was once a school, and is now an immaculate showcase of Moroccan influenced architecture and style.

Jnan Sbil Gardens

A quick walk to the west of the blue gate and before you reach the Jewish quarter (the Mellah), you will find the Jnan Sbil Gardens. The city of Fes is a desert for most of the year, and these gardens are the only proper green space within, so they are a great stop to soak in some fresh air and relax from the hectic city life, have a picnic on one of the shaded benches, and enjoy the beauty of nature surrounding you. For a drink (or pot of mint tea) with a view, try Mezzanine - it has a rooftop terrace with a lounge, and great vantage point overlooking the gardens.

Al Attarine Madrasa 

The Al Attarine Madrasa (meaning perfume, and named because of its location to the perfume souks) is a school using for religious instruction. It was built during the Marinid dynasty in 1325, and the beauty here lies mainly in the courtyard. From the walls to the ceilings, to the floors, there was not an inch of space that was missed in the design of this awe-inspiring space. There are 3 main artistic elements that can be seen throughout the space. The first, a series of engraved patterns that are centered on a symmetrical grid, the second, tiled Islamic geometric patterns and the third, painted Arabic calligraphy. The floors have simple tiles, as the geometric patterns used in the rest of the Madrasa was believe to be too sacred to be walked on.

For a small fee, you can enter the Madrasa, spend as much time as you like, and take as many photos of the incredible and unique courtyard.

Marrakech

Don’t let the train or bus to get to Marrakech give you the idea that it’s not worth the trip. Don’t get me wrong; to get here, the train from Fez is a long one – 6.5 hours of winding around the Atlas Mountains to get to the vibrant city of Marrakech, but the views are outstanding. If you’re strapped for time, there is a big airport to fly into within the city, so getting to Marrakech can be as easy as you would like to make it. 

Immediately after stepping off of the train, Marrakech had a different feel from the last cities I had been. The city itself has a mainly red hue from the concrete used to construct the buildings here, giving it the nickname of the ‘red’ city. The hustle and bustle of the city was apparent right from the get go. Its also been nicknamed the Las Vegas of Morocco, so if you’re looking for nightlife, Marrakech is a hot spot full of nightclubs, casinos, belly dancing shows, high end restaurants, you name it. 

After checking into the beautiful hostel I was staying at (Rodamon Riad Marrakech, named the best hostel in Morocco in 2019, for good reason) it was time to start wandering around the city. I was fortunate to have a ‘local’ touring me around, which was incredibly handy to have someone there who could not only navigate the old medina like it was imprinted on the back of his hand, but he also spoke the language and could fend off the hounding of the many shopkeepers as we strolled through the souks. The souks in Marrakech are enchanting, and are sure to captivate your nose buds with all the smells wafting through. To keep your taste buds from getting jealous, be sure to try some of the fresh orange juice or prickly pear from one of the many street vendors – not only is it cheap, its juicy and delicious! At night, the Jemaa el-Fnaa square beams with locals and tourists, and you can get some great local food from one of the stalls here. If you can, find the guy who sells a spicy tea and sellou (a cake made with toasted nuts, fennel, cinnamon, cardamom, honey & more), his cart is always busy, and we went back every day to get his delicious cake before it was gone. 

Over the next few days, I got to see a great deal of the enthralling city. Everything from the Bahia and Badia palaces, the Menara and Majorelle (YSL) gardens, a leather tannery, a belly dance show, and even simple things such as strolling through the cities many squares were nothing short of remarkable. A lot of people I have met along the way were skipping Marrakech altogether because of how crazy it can get, but in my opinion, a trip to Morocco without visiting this city is missing a vital piece of the country and what it has to offer. Do you need to spend a ton of time here? No, but a few days here will go by very quickly so be prepared to move fast if you only have a few days and want to get a proper feel for the city! 

Bahia & Badi Palaces

The Badi Palace –- Meaning ‘Palace of Wonder’ in Arabic, is a ruined palace near the Medina in Marrakech. A sultan in the Saadian dynasty authorized the Palace construction in 1578, and a significant portion of the funding came from a ransom paid by the Portuguese following the Battle of the 3 kings. Construction was completed in 1593, nearly 15 years later, with some of the most expensive materials at the time – gold, onyx, and marble. The Badi palace has a very ‘Indiana Jones’ feel to it because of the old red walls (much like the rest of the city of Marrakech), so spend an hour or two if its not too hot, and enjoy the history of the palace and everything that it has to offer.

The Bahia Palace –- Meaning ‘Brilliance’ in Arabic, is both a Palace and gardens in Marrakech. The Palace was built in the late 1800’s, and was meant to be the most pristine palace of its time, capturing both Islamic and Moroccan culture in its architectural style. Si Moussa Ba Ahmed set up the Palace and named it after his love, strictly for his personal use as a home for his 4 wives, and 24 mistresses, as well as a school for his children. You can easily spend an hour or two here wandering through the many rooms and central courtyard, admiring the architecture, tile, and carvings within every area of the extravagant Palace.

Majorelle & Menara Gardens

The Majorelle Gardens (& Yves Saint Laurent Museum) are one of the most visited tourist attractions in Marrakech. The gardens took Jacques Majorelle – the designer – 40 years to fully create this enthralling space, and his creativity shines throughout the many aspects of the gardens. Here, you will walk through small shady paths between over 300 different species of exotic trees and plants, past pools and streams filled with floating water lilies and lotus flowers, listen to the birds chirp, and admire many buildings, pots, and pools with Moorish flair in striking hues of bold primary colors (so for you IG’s out there, dress appropriately). Majorelle got much of his inspo for the shades of the buildings from the Atlas Mountains, especially what would come to be known as ‘Majorelle blue’, a striking cobalt blue that he believed ‘evoked Africa’, and has been showcased throughout the gardens to accentuate the greenery in the flowers and leaves. Stepping into the Majorelle Gardens will take you away from the hustle and bustle of the city around you, and into an enchanting and calming garden oasis. 

The Gardens opened to the public in 1947, but soon after, was in disrepair and put up for sale when Jacques passed away. The property was bought and was supposed to be turned into a hotel, before Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé stepped in. Laurent and Bergé purchased the gardens in 1980 and began restoring the gardens to their former glory. Majorelle’s painting studio was converted into a museum, highlighting the Berber collections of Laurent and Bergé, and is open to the public to check out. 

Admission into the Gardens cost 70 Dirhams (~$10 CAD) and if you want to visit the museum as well, entrance is 100 Dirhams for both (~$14). As this is a very popular tourist attraction, the earlier you go, the better to avoid the big crowds and long lineup to get tickets. Insider tip: If you plan on going to both the gardens and the museum, go to the museum first, purchase both museum and garden entrance tickets, and then you can head right to the front of the main entrance for the gardens afterwards! You’ll get to walk past all of the tourists who don’t know this and may wait in line for an hour or more before getting in.

The Menara gardens are botanical gardens in Marrakech, which were initially established in the 1100’s. A pavilion was added in the 16th century, which incorporated the Menara (meaning lighthouse, though the building itself is not a lighthouse), as well as an artificial lake that is surrounded by olive trees and orchards. The water that fills the basin is from the Atlas Mountains some 30 km away, and is used to irrigate the trees surrounding, using an underground channel system called a qanat. The gardens are open from 8AM-7PM daily, and there is no entrance fee to go in, so pack a picnic, find some shade under a tree in the orchard and enjoy a day soaking in some nature in Marrakech!

Merzouga

If you have ever thought about Morocco, you probably think of dry, arid temperatures, and a desert (at least I did), and though it is very hot, a large part of Morocco does not look very ‘deserted’. With that said, you easily* can take a trip into the Sahara desert by paying a visit to Merzouga, a town on the east side of Morocco near the Algerian border. I say easily with a caveat, because though you can do it, it is not a quick trip. Merzouga sits on the edge of a 50x5km area of sand dunes in the Sahara desert known as Erg Chebbi, where the sand dunes can reach a height of up of 350m above the plain. Merzouga is the main kick off point for nearly all desert tours in Morocco, and when coming here, you will rarely actually stay in the town itself. Most visitors come to Merzouga to ride a camel into the dunes, stay overnight in a camp to stargaze and to get a taste of the authentic and remote Berber lifestyle. The locals here are extremely welcoming, and you are able to get most things you will need for your desert trek from town if you forgot something (sunglasses, shawl to protect from the sand, etc.).

I’ll start off by saying that I went to from Marrakech to Merzouga without a tour company – would it have been easier with one? Of course, and it probably would have ended up being about the same amount of money, but its always a very different experience when you force yourself out of your comfort zone to figure it out on your own. The main difference though? I spent 4 days as opposed to 3 with a tour company, spent nearly 2 full days exploring and got to experience the more local and real side of the less touristy parts of Morocco. The transport was organized on the fly – we knew that we could do it, but just figured it out as we went. The first day was long, and was a bus trip from Marrekech to Ouarzazate (which cost $105 Dirhams (~$15 CAD)) and took about 5 hours to get to.

Ouarzazate

Many do not know of Ouarzazate, unless you are in the film industry. Nicknamed the ‘door to the desert’ or Morocco’s ‘Little Hollywood’, many tourists don’t spend much time here, though you can probably fill up a few days exploring the towns dusty streets. I spent my first of 3 nights in Ouarzazate, and due to bus schedule, had some time to spend exploring the quaint town. 

Main attractions in and around Ouarzazate include the Ait Ben Haddou (ideal at sunrise or sunset, and made famous in GOT recently, among other films), the Taourirt Kasbah (also used in many different movie sets), as well as the cinema museum across the street, or the CLA Studios just to name a few. The Cinema Museum was surprisingly a lot more interesting than I expected it to be, and was well worth the time spent here. The museum showcases different parts of the film industry, where you can walk through the sets of many different past movies (and see how cheap and lackluster some sets really are), see how cameras and equipment have changed over the years, and see different costumes from the films shot here. CLA studios is on the highway just outside of town, and also has full film sets that you can walk all over, and will likely have few tourists at.

After leaving Ouarzazate the next day, we were on our final bus stretch to get into the desert. The bus from Ouarzazate to Merzouga cost 155 Dirhams (~$21 CAD).

The Sahara Desert

The purpose of the trip out to Merzouga was of course, to see the Sahara desert and the sand dunes. After another long bus ride from Ouarzazate to Merzouga, I had made it. Fun fact: Sahara itself translates to ‘desert’, so when you say the Sahara desert, you’re actually just saying desert twice. We had arrive via bus, and the bus got in around 6/7 PM, so we arrived in the dark and didn’t really get a sense of where we really were until the next day, but we wanted to take advantage of the time there. Merzouga itself is right on the edge of the dunes, so if you arrive a day before, take a walk into the dunes yourself to check them out. Whether at night, or during the day, the dunes are impressive. We found some just outside of town, got out of the town lights, were on the verge of entering the midst of the Sahara, and laid down to watch the stars go by before heading to bed for the night.

The tours into the Sahara all generally leave Merzouga around 4 - 5 PM, and the ride into the desert takes about 2-2.5 hours depending on how many stops you want to take for photos, and to give your ass a rest – and believe me – you will need to. The camels that you will ride in the Sahara are dromedary (or Arabian) camels, meaning that they only have one hump that you ride on top of. In contrast, it is Bactrian camels, native to central Asia, which have 2 humps. Dromedary camels are not the most comfortable ride by any means, especially for hours on end, so the breaks are welcomed, but the views are well worth any discomfort that you’ll feel. Your leader will stop as often as you need, and you will have endless opportunities to take those photos for the ‘gram.  On the ride, you will find yourself sitting on top of your camel for the sunset, sticking your feet into many a sand dune and riding your way across this little piece of Sahara heaven until you reach your camp shortly after dusk.

Even though I had been in the desert and sand dunes before in Huacachina, Peru (and bigger dunes in Peru might I add), it was still very surreal being surrounded by SO much sand. For me, seeing both the sunset and the sunrise, while being surrounded by nothing but sand wherever you look, will always be a remarkable sight to see. The wispy clouds on this sunset and sunrise created pink, purple and blue cotton candy skies that couldn’t be dreamt of.

After watching the sunset, it’s back on the camels to head to the camps for dinner and the evening festivities. After arriving at the camp, we were provided with a warm dinner of traditional chicken tagine, vegetables and fruit, as well as Moroccan mint tea to warm you up. After dinner, the Berber organizers built a bonfire while playing instruments, singing and dancing, as we all took in the atmosphere and energy of the night in the Sahara.

Believe it or not, even though you are in the middle of the Moroccan desert, the nights here get COLD, especially if you end up with clear skies like we had. With that said, the clear skies are always welcomed as once the lights of the camps are shut off, you can have some amazing star gazing here. Because of the cool temperatures at night, even though you’re advised to only bring the essentials in your daypack on the ride, be sure to pack some warm clothes to keep you toasty in the chilly evenings, especially if you plan on sleeping under the stars. We were lucky (or unlucky depending on how you want to look at it), as we were here for a nearly full moon that was out at night. The brightly glowing moon shone down on the camp in the evening, providing us with nature’s natural light, but sadly masked most of the stars in the night sky. Either way, it was a gorgeous night for taking in the desert.

Your trip back to Merzouga from camp will be an early start. You will wake up before sunrise, have a quick breakfast, and then pop back onto your camel to head back to town for sunrise. Once again, you will stop on your way back to watch the sunrise and take in the beautiful views from the dunes one last time before making your way back to Merzouga to end your tour, and finally onward to Marrakech or Fes, or wherever your destination may be.

The cost for the Sahara Desert tour from Merzouga including camel ride both ways, dinner, small breakfast, and the overnight in the desert was 350 Moroccan Dirhams (~$48 CAD), and is a very typical price to pay from Merzouga. This was for budget accommodation, though there are tons of higher end places to stay in, including some pretty fancy-shmancy tents depending on your budget and required comforts.

A few last notes:

First – If you want to head into the desert without booking a tour and don’t care about riding camels in, you can easily camp out in the desert on your own. As mentioned above, it can get quite cool in the night, so be sure to pack enough warm gear! Most people don’t even bother with a tent, but you’ll want to start your trek early enough so that you can set up your camp with plenty of time. You will have the entire Sahara dunes to yourself this way, but you will need to plan to be self sufficient for the night and hot morning. Plan to bring a ton of water (more than you think), food, some warm clothes, and don’t go alone (just in case).

Second - What you will come to realize, is that this is not a very authentic Moroccan experience at all. It is a huge tourism trade for them, and though you will see Berber people playing music and dancing around your campfire at night, this is not their typical lifestyle. You will see tons of people doing the same trek to other camps, your camp will be near the edge of the dunes with power and electricity (ran by generators nearby), will have many other camps right next to it, and filter tourists in and out daily. My experience here was still amazing and I’m definitely still glad that I did it, but don’t let the tourism façade blind you from realizing that this isn’t ‘real life’ for them.

Taghazout

If you’re a surfer (or want to become one), then the Atlantic Ocean in Western Morocco is a great place to be. The waves on the west coast in the fall have some great surf, and there are few places that you can visit to catch some breaks, and Taghazout is one of them. A lesser-known town in Morocco, Taghazout is a quaint surf town packed full of beachfront restaurants, surf shops, and markets. A 30 minute drive north from the city of Agadir, you can either visit as a day trip, or spend a few days enjoying the laid back lifestyle that the town offers. 

To get to Taghazout from Marrakech, head to Agadir by bus on the South West coast of Morocco (either Supratours or CTM will get you there). From Agadir, head north to Taghazout either via a shared Grand taxi, your own private car, or a local bus. Shared transport will of course be the most cost effective, but may take longer if you need to wait for the grand taxi to fill up!

For the yogis - as goes with many surf towns, there is also a ton of yoga offerings here, which of course I loved. Yoga classes are offered daily by multiple places throughout the day, so you wont have to worry about trying to find a class to suit your style or schedule!

For the surfers – there are many beaches near Taghazout that offer great surf breaks, one of the better-known being Banana point/beach. Watch the tide schedule and get a lesson or rent your gear and transport from one of the many surf shops in town, and enjoy some great surf waves. As a very mediocre surfer myself – I got pounded by some waves here, so for the more experienced (which isn’t hard to be, compared to my skills) be sure to take a day to ride the waves here, or catch an amazing sunset on the water.

Speaking of sunsets, Taghazout offers a very unique place to watch the sunset – its skate park. Sitting atop the hill overlooking the town, it is the local spot to watch the sunset and skateboarders alike showing off their skills as they ‘ride the wave’ in the skate park. Other great places to watch the sunset include from the water on your surfboard, or one of the many restaurants and cafes that line the beachfront.

For a day or weekend trip from Taghazout, take a ride to another lesser-known town to the north, Essouira. The towns name translates to ‘little picture’ in Arabic, and as its location on the Atlantic Ocean would suggest, it’s an artists dream. It has a vibrant white and blue medina, colorful port, and long, wide beach perfect for sunbathing. Similar to Taghazout, you will find many surf shops and waves awaiting your board.

To get the most of the laid back lifestyle – plan to stay in the Taghazout area for a few days, though if you are in a time crunch, a day trip from Agadir would suffice.

Tangier

From the minute I stepped off of the ferry in Tangier, I knew I was somewhere different, but no less incredible. Tangier was my first stop in Morocco, and as much as I had prepared myself for a different culture, I had no idea what I was getting myself into. A mosque just outside of the port had just finished a ‘call to prayer’ and everyone was flooding out of the area. I was immediately hounded by taxi drivers and the like telling me that I was “going the wrong way” even though they had no idea where I was headed. This was the first country that my European SIM card did not work in, so I felt a little lost giving up my beloved Google Maps and data I had become so dearly reliant on. Little did I know, I very quickly learned that even data wouldn’t be able to help you once you were in the medina.

The ‘medina’ itself was where my hostel was, and getting there was a feat on its own. I tried to follow the hostels directions as closely as a could, but walking in a labyrinth of shops and cement walls that surround you, its easy to get lost. Little kids will be constantly offering you an escort to the hostel, but be warned that they expect to get paid to do so. Eventually (and with a few missed turns along the way) I stumbled upon my hostel. My first thoughts when walking in were ‘oh no’. The bathroom and shower on the main floor had backed up, and the hostel smelled like shit. Literally. Thankfully, the manager had it under control and the plumber was just on his way out. After checking in, I decided to wander through the medina and check out Tangier.

My first impression of the old Medina was – where am I right now? I had stepped into a whole different world from what I was used to, and man was I hot. I wandered around to the nearby markets to pick up a shawl – something necessary not only to keep the heat off of you, but an easy way to help cover up with the Muslim culture. I sat down at a café in the sunshine to get some lunch, and within 5 minutes I kept thinking to myself – how am I supposed to stay this covered up in this heat?! How do the locals manage? Before long, I started to hear this noise throughout the city. Ambulance? No. Siren? Well, kind of. It was the first time I would hear this sound 5 times a day for the next 3 weeks. Practicing Muslims practice ‘call to prayer’ 5 times a day. After realizing what was happening, people watching in the square around me, and starting to get a grasp on where I was and what I was seeing, I decided to head back to the hostel to make some new friends and relax before dinner.

The hostel provided dinner to the guests for a small fee, and for the first night we had a traditional Moroccan dinner – couscous (small steamed balls of crushed wheat durum) and a chicken taginearound a table with over 10 people from all over the world. A tagine is a customary Moroccan dish/stew named after the clay dish that it's cooked in, and usually contains chicken or lamb, and vegetables with many spices mixed in. I would come to have a million of these over the next few weeks in Morocco. After quickly making friends, we all went up to the rooftop terrace for a few drinks before heading out for the night. Traditionally, Morocco is a ‘dry’ country due its Muslim culture, so alcohol is not easy to come by. Knowing this ahead of time, I had prepped and picked some up in Tarifa before hopping over. Apparently I was the only one who had thought of this and after sharing my bottle of vodka (I am Canadian after all, and too polite to say no), we were on route for a night out with the hostel staff and their local friends. Our first stop was a bar with local, live music before we all ventured down to the nightclubs to dance. Going out in Tangier is relatively easy to do, but you will need to get out of the old medina and into the city center to do so. There are lots of bars, restaurants and nightclubs along the main waterfront around Chellah Beach, so venturing out of the old town will give you very different feels.

The main sights to see in the old Medina in Tangier are the Grand Mosque, all of the Berber carpet and textile shops, and the Kasbah (a fortress if you will). You will feel no shortage of hospitality by the Moroccan and Berber people, so be sure to go into their shops, have tea, and let them share their story and impressive artistry with you.

For a day trip from Tangier, head out to see the Hercules caves. The caves are essentially huge grottos on the West coast of Morocco (~1 hour from Tangier, reachable by cab or car). You can wander into the caves and check out the nearby Atlantic Ocean for an easy and beautiful day trip outside of the hustle and bustle of the city and medina.

Many cities are accessible via Tangier either by bus, train or ferry, so Tangier is a great start/end point for Morocco if you are in Spain and want to get a taste of a different culture relatively easy. To get to Morocco-Spain or vice-versa, you can book a ferry ticket online and show up to the terminal. You will go through a border crossing ON the boat (it’s a bit weird, and not well told), so be sure to get a stamp on your passport before you get off the boat! Tangier is still quite ‘Westernized’ unless you’re in the old Medina, so heading down south to some of the more classic Moroccan cities will give you a very different feel compared to Tangier, and will give you a better taste of the ‘real’ Morocco. In general, 2-3 days in Tangier is plenty before heading elsewhere.